2.0 EcoBoost Common Engine Problems
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The 5 Most Common Ford 2.0 EcoBoost Engine Problems

Jake Mayock

Meet Jake

Jake is a founder of 8020 Media and TuningPro. He has over a decade of experience in the automotive industry including parts sales, writing, DIY modifications & repairs, and more. Jake is currently converting his N54 to a single turbo and building a Miata track car. He’s an experienced, hands-on automotive enthusiast who delivers in-depth, well-researched content.

Much like the whole line of Ford EcoBoost engines, the 2.0 EcoBoost delivers a great balance of power, fuel economy, and reliability. However, it’s also subject to a number of common engine problems and failures. These include coolant intrusion, cracked exhaust manifold, boost solenoid, LPFP, and carbon build-up. In this guide, I discuss each of these common 2.0 EcoBoost engine problems, symptoms, fixes, and reliability.

Ford 2.0 EcoBoost Common Problems

  • Coolant Intrusion
  • Cracked Exhaust Manifold
  • Turbo/Boost Control Solenoid Failure
  • Low-Pressure Fuel Pump Failure (LPFP)
  • Carbon Build-up

If you would rather consume this content via a video, check out our Ford 2.0 EcoBoost Common Problems video below:

1) Coolant Intrusion

Coolant intrusion has been a major issue on a number of Ford 4-cylinder EcoBoost models including the 1.5L, 1.6L, and 2.0L EcoBoost. To break down the term ‘coolant intrusion’ into simpler terms, there is a defect in the mating surface between the 2.0L EcoBoost’s engine block and cylinder head that allows coolant to seep into the combustion chamber. The 2.0L EcoBoost coolant intrusion issue is largely caused by the engine’s open-deck cooling design which is prone to gasket failure. Cylinders two and three are the most commonly affected cylinders by this issue. This issue was largely fixed with the Gen II 2.0L EcoBoost engines built after April 2019.

This is a very serious issue, as coolant intrusion can lead to potentially destructive results. With coolant constantly leaking into the cylinders, a 2.0L EcoBoost with coolant intrusion issues will consume coolant at a rapid rate, leading to additional problems if you aren’t constantly monitoring your coolant levels. Additionally, 2.0L EcoBoost coolant intrusion can lead to corrosion, misfires, overheating, fouled spark plugs, engine fires, and complete engine failure if not addressed. It has been such a problem in early model 2.0L EcoBoosts that Ford issued a technical service bulletin that can be seen here. There is also an ongoing class action lawsuit about the problem.

For more information about 2.0L EcoBoost coolant intrusion and head gasket issues, we wrote an entire article about it here.

Symptoms of Coolant Intrusion

  • Engine overheating (often triggering a P0217 engine code)
  • Engine misfiring (especially on startup)
  • Lack of acceleration
  • Overly rich running engine

These are the most common symptoms of 2.0L EcoBoost coolant intrusion, but not all of them. However, the easiest way to tell is if your EcoBoost is consuming a ton of coolant without any visible leaks under the car. There is no easy solution to the coolant intrusion issue and, in most cases, the affected car needs an entirely new engine. Unfortunately, many 2.0L EcoBoost owners have had an extremely difficult time getting the issue resolved through Ford. Ford won’t repair the issue if the vehicle is out of warranty, even if the affected engine is a low mileage example. Once again, this issue is far more common on first-gen 2.0 EcoBoost engines, as second-gen 2.0Ls switched to a more sturdy deck design.

2) Cracked Exhaust Manifold

Both generations of the 2.0 EB have an integrated exhaust manifold design. The manifold is made of stainless steel and integrated directly into the cylinder head. Note on European version of this engine, the exhaust manifold is not integrated, using a traditional cylinder head with individual exhaust ports and a conventional manifold.

On the 2.0 EcoBoost, exhaust gas temps can reach excessive temperatures, especially when towing or driving up grades. The constant heat cycles created by engines and fluctuating temperatures expands and contracts the stainless steel exhaust manifold. When you combine the continuous expansion and contraction with a vibrating engine, the exhaust manifold can form hairline cracks.

When an exhaust manifold cracks, air begins to seep out of the crack instead of flowing out of the exhaust. While this is not healthy for the environment, it also has significant performance and drivability implications. Turbochargers need back pressure to operate efficiently. When the exhaust manifold cracks, all back pressure is lost which means the turbo has to work extra hard to produce normal power levels.

Symptoms of a Cracked Exhaust Manifold

  • Whistling, whining, or chirping noise coming from the engine
  • Poor performance
  • Lack of acceleration
  • Excessive boost or psi from the turbo
  • Exhaust fume smells inside the car

Driving with a cracked manifold is a really easy way to blow your whole turbocharger as it makes the turbo spool excessively. Unfortunately, when the exhaust manifold cracks, the repair can be rather expensive. On the 2.0 EcoBoost, the turbocharger is integrated with the exhaust manifold. And the exhaust manifold is integrated with the head.

As noted above, this most commonly occurs while towing vehicles, especially when towing up steep inclines. However, it is becoming more and more common on stock cars under normal driving conditions.

3) Turbo Boost Control Solenoid Failure

The turbo control solenoid or valve, also known as a boost solenoid, is responsible for controlling boost. It is an electronic component that controls the wastegate on the turbo via vacuum pressures and the ECM. The wastegate controls the flow of exhaust gases to the turbo turbine, essentially controlling how much the turbo spins and how much boost it produces.

When the boost solenoid goes bad, it improperly opens and closes the wastegate. When this happens, the turbo either products too much or not enough boost compared to the amount of pressure you are putting on the accelerator pedal.

Boost solenoids naturally fail over time. They are electrical and can go bad from corroded wires, dirt buildup, water, and various other natural wear and tear causes. While on most vehicles, solenoids tend to last around 10yrs or so, boost solenoids on the 2.0 EcoBoost are known to fail in half that time or around the 50k-80k mileage mark.

Symptoms of a Failing Boost Solenoid

  • Engine builds no boost under acceleration
  • Poor performance, loss of power
  • Rapid changes in boost pressure
  • Decrease in fuel economy
  • P0299 engine code and check engine light

While replacing the boost solenoid costs about $50 for the part, it can be a little tricky to DIY since the valve is located on the turbocharger which is buried in the engine bay. If you are interested in repairing your 2.0L EcoBoost boost solenoid yourself, check out this video.

4. Low-Pressure Fuel Pump (LPFP) Failure

Direct injection fuel systems use two fuel pumps: a high-pressure and a low-pressure pump. Because direct injection systems deliver fuel to the injectors at nearly 30,000 psi of pressure, it would be extremely difficult for one pump to grab fuel from the gas tank and send it all the way to the injectors while maintaining these pressure levels.

Therefore, a low-pressure fuel pump is used to relieve the stress and demand on the HPFP. The low-pressure pump pulls gas from the gas tank and delivers it to the high-pressure pump.

On the 2.0 EcoBoost, the fuel filter that sits within gas tank can become clogged which forces the LPFP to overwork itself trying to pull enough fuel from the tank to send to the HPFP.

2.0 EcoBoost High-Pressure Fuel Pump Failure

It is worth noting that the high-pressure fuel pump is also prone to failure. This is pretty normal on any direct injection engine as the HPFP operates under extremely high pressures. The HPFP has an impeller on the inside of it which builds the pressure and pumps the gas toward the injector. This impeller can break or weaken which results in low fuel pressures.

LPFP / HPFP Failure Symptoms

The result of both of these failure are generally the same. A bad HPFP will deliver low fuel pressure, whereas a bad LPFP will cause the HPFP to not deliver enough fuel.

  • Engine misfires
  • Air-to-fuel ratios are running lean
  • Poor performance
  • Lack of acceleration
  • Rough idling
  • Check engine light

5. Carbon Build-up

As with all direct injection engines, the 2.0 EB suffers from carbon build-up. On DI engines, the fuel is delivered directly to the cylinders via fuel injectors. On port injection engines, the fuel is delivered to the intake manifold where it is then delivered to the cylinders. When the fuel is delivered via the intake manifold, you have highly pressurized fuel passing through it, which helps keep the intake valves clean.

However, with direct injection, the fuel completely bypasses the intake valves. Over time, carbon deposits build up inside the intake valves which restricts the airflow to the cylinders. While excessive carbon build-up won’t happen overnight and likely won’t be noticeable early on, it can have some performance impactions.

As the engine ends up with less air, air-to-fuel ratios can be impacted, overall performance will decline and the 2.0 can lose power and feel sluggish.

Carbon Build-up Symptoms

  • Cylinder misfires
  • Sluggish performance
  • Lack of acceleration
  • Rough idling

Usually, the first sign to appear will be misfires, and the misfires will be the cause of poor performance. The carbon develops on all of the intake valves, but it does not do so evenly. Ultimately, various cylinders can have more build-up than others which causes an uneven amount of air to enter each cylinder. Typically, any power losses occur over a number of years so it is difficult to diagnose any issues here before misfires kick in.

Walnut Blasting

The best option to prevent any carbon build-up performance issues is to walnut blast your intake ports. This process uses a shop vac and walnut media shells. The shop vac blasts the shells through the intake ports which clears out all of the build-up.

Walnut blasting typically costs around $500. We recommend doing it every ~80,000 miles on any direct injection engine. Again, this is not something that needs to be done immediately unless you are experiencing serious issues from the build-up.

Ford 2.0 EcoBoost Reliability

The 2.0 EcoBoost is a reliable engine. Generally speaking, there are not very many common problems and the internals and major engine components have solid longevity. Despite Ford building their own block in Gen 2 vs. using the Mazda block for Gen 1, both versions are just about equally as reliable.

These engines should easily withstand 150,000 miles. However, once you break past these mileages, you should naturally expect to start having to replace various material components of the engine and its systems. LPFP/HPFP, water pumps, hoses, turbo seals, etc. are all relatively expensive problems that commonly pop up on high mileage 2.0 EB’s.

We have tons of additional content for the 2.0L EcoBoost including the best performance upgrades, 2.0 vs 2.3 EcoBoost, and more.

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34 Comments

  1. Thinking of buying a 2022 Ford Maverick. This seems a very decent review to me, should I pull the trigger and reserve one?

      1. The review says the engine should easily go 150,000 miles. Why would that be a bad review? If you take care of them, I know several people that have 2 l eco boost engines with over 200,000 miles on them.

    1. Valve seals are leaking oil via the valve guides into the the cylinders. It only happens after the vehicle has been sitting, generally over night, say 8 to 10 hours. While it is probably happening after 4 hours, there is so little oil, it burns off without making the blueish tint smoke you see in the morning for several seconds at start up. Sadly if you don’t have an extended warranty there is no cost effective fix. With warranty Ford used to rebuild the engine, but there were so many issues after these rebuilds that Ford stopped offering this as an option and will replace the engine with a new I one. I learned all this from a few private mechanics and a Ford Service Representative who was probably too honest with me. Like you (unless you have a warranty) I am quite disappointed.

    1. Car is still in shop due to hurricane but Mechanic says definitely have an issue with either head gasket or crack in block. Hasn’t had time to scope it yet. 😢

    2. I have a 2017 escape too and coolant is leaking into the cylinders. Service bullitens about it and a couple class action lawsuits too. I wonder if we have the same issue!

  2. I have a 2015 edge with 2.0 eb got 250,000 miles got the plugs changed at the dealer and it was fine but made a louder exhaust noise a month later it’s loader the a tank ,they tell me it’s toast , can’t help but wonder if I should have let it be

  3. Same smoke from exhaust and coolant in oil as my fusion – they tell me I need a new engine. Shop replaced 25 Ecoboost 2.0L engines in past year – get extended warranty or trade in the car.

  4. We have a 2019 Edge with 31,000 miles. The engine broke down with coolant getting into the pistons. The dealer said we need a new engine and it will take at least two to three months to get one!!! I am very disappointed with Ford motor company.

  5. Have a 2017 Edge 120km on it . Engine is junk leaking coolant internally. Cost to fix at ford is $9700. Sure sucks that ford will not help out the consumer when they now there is a problem . TSB 19-2346.

  6. Had a 2019 edge The 2.0 ecoboost gave out at 30,000 miles. Coolant was getting in the cylinders and the dealership said it needed a new motor. I think ours was an eco bust!

  7. What about all of the issues of coolant leaking in to the cylinders! We bought a low-mileage used 2018 Ford Escape and at 30,000 miles we have to replace the motor = $8,000! This is a documented issue that Ford won’t address – there is even a possible Class Action Suit.

  8. 189000 on my ’14 Fusion 2.0L EB. All I have done to it is 1 set of plugs. Has a Cold Air Intake, but that is the only mod. I think it is a great engine.

    1. I have a 2014 Ford Fusion 2.0 Ecoboost, $154,000 miles on it. Just got misfire on cylinder 1 & oil in spark plugs.Got used engine put in it, just picked up yesterday runs awesome. I’d get that service to clean the carbon out so it doesn’t happen to you or sell it before it happens.

  9. This engine is a turkey! It have notorious design flaw allowing coolant leak into cylinders! Have you noticed low coolant, white smoke out exhaust, rough idle, high engine temp, etc. There are numerous Ford TSB out on the problem. Solution: new engine in form of long block and all new parts, $10k! There is Class Action law suit in the courts right now!

  10. I have a 2016 Ford Fusion Titanium 2.0 EB. Same problem with mine. Mind you, I have 120K miles on it, but this problem started at about 110K miles. I’ve done numerous things to it, which includes spark plug replacement, spark plug coil replacements, carbon build-up cleaning, etc. I’m having to add coolant about every two weeks or so. Frustrating, because the car looks new, but with a bad engine problem. Ford is charging me 10K to replace engine. Unbelievable!

  11. My 2017 Escape Titanium has 55K on it, bought it new. Now i keep getting the code for cylinder 1 misfiring and the coolant was down 1/2 a gallon. Shop said get ready to buy a new engine or trade it quick!

  12. Two thoughts here, the fact that the author of this article stated the 2nd gen engine could used to tow is laughable. Are you serious? Then stating this engine is reliable? All of Ford’s ecoboost engines are reliable up to 70k, but after that they are plagued with engine problems. As a mechanic, I have replaced numerous turbos and engines due to, open deck cooling, bad piston rings, and head fractures due to internal exhaust manifold. Buy a Toyota, you’ll get 200k at a minimum.

  13. I am afraid of this engine, mainly because of coolant intrusion. It’s unacceptable. Had before: a 2005 Mazda Tribute, a 2008 Mercury Mariner, and a 2010 Ford Escape, all with V6 Duratec. It was a great engine, very smooth, powerful, and without any problems. They are all called Mazda engines. Now after 2013 Escape is basically clunker because of this Ecoboost engine, it also has problems with the transmission. I almost bought the 2017 Ford Fusion but finally decided not to because of this EcoBoost engine. I think I will buy a Mazda, like the CX-5 or so, because Mazda makes a good engine. It’s more expensive than Ford, though. Thanks for the article.

    1. Hi Debbie,

      Yes, the good news is that Ford did fix the coolant intrusion issues in 2020 when they redesigned the 2.0L EcoBoost’s open deck block. The problem arose from the small cooling slits between the cylinders which didn’t give the head gasket a large enough mating surface to withstand the continuous load from the engine. Ford fixed the issue by getting rid of those slits in favor of a pinhole design which gave the head gasket a much larger mating surface. I’ll link a video below which explains the differences in more detail.

      Ford 2.0L Ecoboost Engine Misfire and Coolant Consumption Issue Fix: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_8nQ1NZW_GI&t=272s&ab_channel=FordTechMakuloco

      Best,

      Austin

  14. Kudos !! One of the most comprehensive, intelligently-written, non-confusing review I’ve ever read. It could have been an automotive wordfest, but all the terms were explained, and VERY well. Kudos !!

  15. The integrated exhaust manifold (IEM) is NOT stainless steel, it’s part of the aluminum cylinder head. Saves $$ by eliminating the stainless manifold.
    But the longer exhaust passages in the aluminum head add greatly to the cooling demand.

  16. I have a 2017 Land Rover sport se with the 2.0. My wife was driving home and it shut off. It will turn over but will not start. I’m getting fuel to and out of the high pressure fuel pump. I’m also getting spark. no previous problems or warnings, no check engine light or codes. Can anyone help? Or have had this problem?

  17. Thanks for sharing this informative post! I’m a Ford 2.0 EcoBoost engine owner and have experienced a few of these problems firsthand. The rough idling and decreased fuel efficiency are definitely issues I’ve dealt with. I’m glad to know that I’m not alone in this struggle. Will definitely be taking the recommended steps to prevent further damage.!

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